Muslin madness - sans sleeves

Talk about behind schedule... I've finally cut out my muslin pieces and started to sew everything together. I cut out a Burda size 10 on the basis of the measurements on the chart for the bust, but now I've started to put it all together, I think it might be a little too small - so ANNOYING as I'm really not sure I can be bothered to cut out everything again... GAAAGH. I've only sewn together the bodice, not the arms yet, and it seems maybe a little snug on me in the bust area (hilariously). Though when I think about it, a US size 10 is a UK size 6 I think - so hardly surprising it seems a bit small. Could I just use an extra 1/4" from each of the seam allowances on the princess seams at the front? That comment probably highlights just how little I know about fitting...perhaps I will attach the sleeves before making a judgement on this. But I need to find out what is the easiest way to add a little more room around the bust. On the other hand though, on the version I found on Pattern Review, it was nicely fitted around the bust. And I don't want to be wearing big wooly jumpers under it - am thinking it will be more the type of coat to wear with skinny jeans and a lovely scarf and heeled boots... yougetme? 


EDIT: I just read this fab blog post which of course noted that the pattern is from Burda's young fashion range, so the sizing is a bit more teen-y - explains the snugness then!

The other thing I'm not sure about is the back. It is not a closely fitted style, but I'm not sure whether I need to do anything with the back? Any thoughts (though appreciate I have not posted a very good before/after pic)?? I can't decide whether there is a bit too much fabric in it somehow (vertically?) or whether that is just the style. I recently bought myself a beautiful coat for my birthday, and I caught a glimpse of myself in the mirror earlier today and noticed that the back fits in a similar way to this pattern - quite loose.

More pics to follow once I have attached sleeves! I think then I'll be in a better position to judge the fit. The armholes (without the sleeves) currently feel very snug for a coat (like the bottom of the armhole is a little too close to my armpit??), but I guess that's maybe because of all the extra seam allowance which hasn't been trimmed? Again, no idea how to adjust this... off to do some googling / reading of sewing books....

Assorted notions

I am really looking forward to doing some proper real-live tailoring with the sew-along.. though I have a fair way to go before I reach that stage. I still haven't cut out my muslin! It's going to be a big day Chez Cybersewer on Sunday! We have a wedding on Saturday so I need to NOT get too hungover, and we must go to church on Sunday - haven't been for absolutely weeks!
One thing I really hope to get from the sew-along is attaching the shell to the lining well. I did have to do this with my test jacket but could have done with some know-how on what to do with finishing the lining on the inside and stuff - and more particularly, the ORDER in which I am supposed to be doing this! When to finish edges before sewing as opposed to after, all that sort of thing. I need to do some more reading of the jacket-tailoring-bible because I seem to recall that sets out the best order in which to do things. And of course I'm sure Gertie will be posting lots of helpful stuff.
Does anyone else have trouble with knowing the correct order in which to do things, especially when you are going a little off piste with the packet instructions?...


Muslin updates soon...

Goin' my own way

I wasn't exaggerating about the full social calender in my last post - we have been away every weekend since my last post. Ca-rah-zee. It was my birthday on Friday though and my lovely husband whisked me off to Portofino in Italy for a surprise weekend. Fabulous or what! And I took an extra day off yesterday to do some URGENT fabric shopping for the coat sew along.

It was while I was meandering down Berwick Street towards Borovick's that I got to thinking more about the Lady Grey pattern. Delicious though it is, I tend to agree with Eugenia in her post on the matter that perhaps the shape of the coat won't be great on me. Now I am not teeny-tiny, but at 5'5", I can see how the swishy back of the coat might do a little too much ass-swamping. When I was in Peter Jones I had a look in some of the pattern books and found Burda 7735 - view A, in yellow in the photo here (which reminds me, why is it VIRTUALLY impossible to order Burda patterns online from the UK through the Burda site??). This will be much more flattering on me, I really suit this shape and also, the style has a lot in common with Lady Grey - princess seams, notched collar and all that. Plenty of buttonholes for me to practice on too (DOOM). So I think I'm gonna go with this one but follow the sew-along anyway...

I have accumulated the necessary for my muslin, but have only just roughly cut out the pattern pieces (there are, like, a zillion about twenty five bits for this coat) so plenty way to go there... I am going to use the muslin method that Gertie is using which looks like it might increase the chances of a good end result. I have also purchased my fashion fabric from MacCulloch & Wallis (£15p/m reduced from £25p/m) - pics to follow when I have figured out how to take proper photos of fabric - colour looks all weird.