Friday, 1 October 2010

Muslin madness - sans sleeves

Talk about behind schedule... I've finally cut out my muslin pieces and started to sew everything together. I cut out a Burda size 10 on the basis of the measurements on the chart for the bust, but now I've started to put it all together, I think it might be a little too small - so ANNOYING as I'm really not sure I can be bothered to cut out everything again... GAAAGH. I've only sewn together the bodice, not the arms yet, and it seems maybe a little snug on me in the bust area (hilariously). Though when I think about it, a US size 10 is a UK size 6 I think - so hardly surprising it seems a bit small. Could I just use an extra 1/4" from each of the seam allowances on the princess seams at the front? That comment probably highlights just how little I know about fitting...perhaps I will attach the sleeves before making a judgement on this. But I need to find out what is the easiest way to add a little more room around the bust. On the other hand though, on the version I found on Pattern Review, it was nicely fitted around the bust. And I don't want to be wearing big wooly jumpers under it - am thinking it will be more the type of coat to wear with skinny jeans and a lovely scarf and heeled boots... yougetme? 

EDIT: I just read this fab blog post which of course noted that the pattern is from Burda's young fashion range, so the sizing is a bit more teen-y - explains the snugness then!

The other thing I'm not sure about is the back. It is not a closely fitted style, but I'm not sure whether I need to do anything with the back? Any thoughts (though appreciate I have not posted a very good before/after pic)?? I can't decide whether there is a bit too much fabric in it somehow (vertically?) or whether that is just the style. I recently bought myself a beautiful coat for my birthday, and I caught a glimpse of myself in the mirror earlier today and noticed that the back fits in a similar way to this pattern - quite loose.

More pics to follow once I have attached sleeves! I think then I'll be in a better position to judge the fit. The armholes (without the sleeves) currently feel very snug for a coat (like the bottom of the armhole is a little too close to my armpit??), but I guess that's maybe because of all the extra seam allowance which hasn't been trimmed? Again, no idea how to adjust this... off to do some googling / reading of sewing books....


  1. Just one thought on the sleeves. I have read that when a garment is more fitted, less ease, the sleeve openings have to be higher in order to allow the wearer to move their arms. Obviously, a person's armpit it the limiting factor of how high a sleeve opening can go! Good luck with your coat.

  2. Cybergirly, thanks so much for answering my query about hair canvas on Gertie's new Blog for better sewing. It is so useful getting that link from you.
    Good luck with fitting your coat.
    Best wishes,

  3. Heya, you could always to a full bust adjustment on the princess seam if it's just the bust bit that's snug & not the whole chest area. As you've cut it out (& I too would be remiss about cutting out a new toile) you should unstitch around the bust to let it out, then pin it where it fits better. Also with coats, will you want to wear a jumper underneath it, cos if so make sure you're wearing one when fitting!
    Good luck. z x

  4. This pattern looks really nice - love the collar and lapel shaping!
    Is the toile small overall or just at the bust? This will determine whether you need to upsize or do a full bust adjustment. I would tend to upsize as this will increase the bust and the armhole as well. If you have to do another toile it is worth it for a coat.
    If the back is forming a horizontal wrinkle you need to do a sway back adjustment, I doubt it is part of this style. You do it as you have pinned but taper it to zero at the side seams.
    Good luck - it's looking great!


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