Thursday, 5 November 2009

Every jacket has a silky lining - but those DAMN RAW EDGES...

During the last week I cut out the lining for my jacket - happily the pattern came with pieces for lining - and I've been putting it together the past couple of evenings. The fabric (which I think the bloke in the shop said was Rayon) is much nicer to sew with than the acetate stuff I've used in the past, and it's also possible easier to tell the right side from the wrong side. And it's soooo nice and silky! It's a sort of taupe / chocolately colour and I think will look really nice against the fashion fabric. I am also thinking about attempting some piping (another thing on the long list of things I've never tried before) on the jacket facing - I've seen it on some coats and jackets I have and I think it looks awesome. I recently ordered Cecelia Podolak's 'Easy guide to sewing jackets' which (though pretty complicated!) has instructions on how to do it. I think I will try this in class though, I sense MUCH could go wrong if I am left completely to my own devices...

In class this week I sewed most of my lining together - just the left sleeve and peplum to do. Apologies for the terrible pics - has been stuffed in my back on the way back from class and needs a good iron... The fabric is fine to work with, but boy does it fray... I pinked the finished edges to try and shut down the fray-a-rama, which seems to have worked a bit. I pressed the seams of the lining open, and I guess it will of course all be hidden on the inside anyway, but is there something else I should be doing to these raw edges? Our teacher said not to overlock any of the edges of the lining pieces because they will all be hidden (apparently this is the approach in the industry) but I hate knowing all those raw edges will be in there... also on the curves (armholes, neckline etc) the edges have to be clipped and I guess that would make a mess of any overlocked edges anyway... I guess before I sew the lining in I will be trimming the seam allowances down anyway?


The thing that I really wanted to do in class this week was have our teacher show me her method of attaching the collar. She only managed to show me the first part (sewing up the back edge of the collar), and then the next step (attaching of the under collar and the upper collar to the bodice at the back) we will do next week.

So this week I need to (i) finish sewing the lining, and (ii) sew the peplum and pocket flaps to the shell. In class then I can set in the sleeves (with sleeve heads and shoulder pads - mental note to self: must purchase non-Dynasty type shoulder pads), attach the collar and then maybe also put in the lining...! I have only two classes left... OH GOD THE PRESSURE!


  1. I can't wait to see the fianl jacket! I had sew a coat/jacket in college and my god it was tough! You'll get through it though, it's going to turn out great.

  2. Could you not just trim the edges of your lining with pinking shears ? Thats what I'll be doing with mine . I don't mind pinking them if they aren't seen.


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